Men's jacket as a piece of clothing remains the most versatile and essential element of our wardrobe. We can wear it in any weather: cold, hot - there are always a lot of fabric options that will be appropriate and comfortable for a certain temperature. For this reason, every man probably has at least one sports jacket in his closet. If not, we highly recommend adding it to your upcoming shopping list. For the first one, dark blue is quite suitable because of its exceptional versatility. About that, there was a separate article. And today we will give some tips on what requirements a well-fitted copy should meet. Simply put, How should a jacket fit?.
In most guides on how to find the right blazer or jacket size for a suit, you'll find strict recommendations about sleeve length, shoulder width, chest fullness, and the length of the jacket itself. The phrase is popular: “the jacket should sit like a glove” (that is, tightly fit the figure). All these rules work in most cases, however there are nuances.
For example, talking about jacket length, the most common advice: the bottom edge should be at the level of the knuckles of the hand. Can we blindly apply this rule? Probably not. There is a difference between the styles of men's jackets and suits. This rule applies to the formal traditional:
But what about modern cropped jackets?
As we can see, this rule does not apply here.
Thus, the length of the jacket can vary from style. Not to mention that everyone's arm length is different.
You can also find advice that at the back, the jacket should completely cover the back. Again, this is not always the case. It would be more accurate to say that the jacket should be long enough to cover the buttocks, and at the same time open the line of the legs as much as possible.
Balance in body proportions is important here. And one of the tasks of clothing is to hide the shortcomings of our physique. As for the jacket, it is considered harmonious when the lower edge of the jacket divides the distance from the collar to the floor approximately in half. Thus, be careful: too long a jacket will visually shorten your legs.
Further, when we speak about shoulder width, the basic rule is that the shoulders of the jacket should end exactly where yours ends. However, we must not forget about the individual characteristics of the figure. If you have too narrow and sloping shoulders, it would be wise to choose a jacket slightly wider and at the same time be sure to be stiff in the shoulders.
Chest Width usually should be such that the palm slides easily inside, but not the fist. And this is correct in most cases. But again, not always. Many people prefer a little more chest space. And yet they look elegant.
Concerning sleeve length, then there are quite reliable guidelines. First, remember the point on your arm below which (when the arm is lowered) the sleeve should not be. This is a very specific place that has its own scientific biological name:
Most often, the length of a jacket sleeve reaches only the bone on the wrist, and then the shirt cuff peeps out:
So if we're wondering How should a jacket fit?, then it is impossible not to take into account the style and, accordingly, silhouette. It is these two concepts - the correct size of the jacket and the silhouette - that are inextricably linked. Knowing clearly what you want from the silhouette - narrow waist or not, wide shoulders or natural, a cropped jacket or a little longer - you will easily find your right size.
At the same time, there are details that do not depend on the model or fashion, but are no less important. You need to remember them when choosing a jacket in a store or taking a job from a tailor.
How should a jacket fit: the most common problems
Sleeve base and collar.
This is perhaps the most difficult part and the most common defect in poorly cut jackets. Ideally, there should be no indentations or folds at the top of the sleeve, and the collar should fit snugly around the neck. You can see these flaws in the photo below.
The place of the buttoned button.
Often in this place the fabric is stretched too much, forming folds in the form of the letter X. Sometimes this is done purposefully in accordance with the trends of modern fashion, but most often this is a sign that the jacket is too tight for you at the waist. Please note that this shortcoming is absent in the following example.
Inaccurate back.
In addition, the back can also be a problem area. Unsightly folds and tension at the waist, shoulders and under the collar. A well-fitting jacket should be free from these problems and look crisp and even.
Sleeves.
You can often see wrinkles on the sleeves if it is not sewn on properly. Here is an example of such a problem:
splines.
A well-fitted jacket has vents that fit close to the body. Make sure the vents of your jacket are similar to those in the picture.
Balance.
This includes primarily the balance of the lengths of the front and back, as well as the left and right. There are two schools, two views on what proportions should be in the front of the jacket and the back. Some tailors are of the opinion that the front should be slightly longer than the back of the jacket. Others believe that they should be equal. In our examples, we are dealing with the second school. Another aspect is the balance of left and right. Here, fortunately, there are no two opinions: both the left and right sides must be aligned with each other.
When choosing a ready-made jacket or suit in the store, and having settled on the most suitable size, do not be lazy and try on one or two more copies of the same size. With a high degree of probability, they will sit a little differently. Or have one or another of the disadvantages described above. Carefully inspect it from all sides and make sure that everything is in order, and only after that go to the checkout.
This was a brief instruction on how the jacket should fit. Remember that the right size is the alpha and omega of men's style. Happy shopping!
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Among my acquaintances there are people who profess the principle of least resistance when it comes to their wardrobe. And the choice between a T-shirt and a shirt is invariably decided not in favor of the latter. The reason is banal laziness and underestimation of the advantages of one's own style. A T-shirt is easier and faster to iron and no buttons need to be buttoned up (: - this is a fact. And often it is appropriate. However, in many cases, I think such people lose points when they neglect the shirt. Sooner or later, a man, especially when he ceases to be a teenager, begins to understand the full power of this piece of clothing.Unfortunately, not everyone has even minimal knowledge in this area, they do not understand what types of men's shirts and collars exist, how to identify correct shirt size whether you always need to refuel and much more. Let's try to fill these gaps today.
A bit of history
It is interesting that initially the men's shirt belonged to underwear, and it was unthinkable to appear in society in one shirt. Others could observe only a small part of the collar and a piece of the cuff. This state of affairs took place for quite a long time until the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries. Even in our time, you can find men of conservative upbringing who ask permission from a woman to take off her jacket in her presence. Also, it is difficult to imagine the president of the country or other high-ranking person at an official reception without a jacket.
In everyday life, the shirt is often in sight, and knowing more about it will not be superfluous.
Types of men's shirts
There are two main types: classic and sporty. We need to know this in order not to accidentally put on a shirt with a business suit, which is not intended for this. And vice versa: avoid wearing a formal top with jeans, for example. So what's the difference?
classical
- The fabric is softer, the weaving is thinner. Examples of fabrics that are used in production: twill, pinpoint, royal oxford - all, of course, from cotton, no synthetics.
- The collar should be tighter. This is mainly due to the fact that a shirt and tie are almost always worn together when we are talking about a formal style. In order for the collar to keep its shape, use special plates that are inserted inside.
- More conservative colors. First of all, white is for special occasions or a strict dress code. And the second most common is blue. If you want to learn more about color combinations, read the article.
- If there is a drawing, it is small. You rarely see a classic shirt in a large thick cage or strip, while in a sports one you often see it. How to mix patterns in clothes, you can find out in the article about.
- The bottom of the formal shirt has a more curved shape.
- On a classic shirt, there are no pockets at all, or there is only one. And it must be empty. No pens or cell phones.
Sports
- The materials used in the production of sports shirts are a little rougher, stronger. It can be a simple oxford, chambray, flannel, denim. By the way, the latter, denim, did not remain in the eighties at all, and the fashion for them has been preserved in our time. Don't be afraid to wear a denim shirt with jeans, as long as the bottom is darker. Do not forget .
- A much larger range of colors, and the patterns are bolder and more varied.
- If you see epaulettes, decorative clasps, more pockets, then you definitely have a sports style shirt in front of you.
Types of men's shirts by type of cut - fitted and loose
If you have an imperfect figure and a stomach, I will not insist here that you devote more time to sports and moderate nutrition, although I should have. Just buy a shirt with a traditional cut.
Are you the owner of a toned torso and no problems with being overweight? Then for you men's fitted shirt. In turn, fitted shirts are divided into narrow (slim) and very narrow (extra slim). It should be noted that this division is not absolute and depends on the company - a fitting in the store is necessary.
In any case, you should choose a shirt without excess material from the sides. See below for the correct size.
How should a shirt fit?
Shirt sleeve length
The main two things you need to know about yourself when purchasing a shirt are neck circumference and sleeve length. They just need to be measured and recorded. It is on these parameters that the dimensions are based. should be such as to reach the beginning of the joint of the thumb, while completely covering the wrist. And even in the bent position of the arm, the wrist should not open excessively.
Collar
The golden rule applies here. One or two fingers (whichever is comfortable) should fit between the neck and the inside of the collar. However, remember (this also applies to sleeves) that the true size of the shirt is established only after several washes.
As for the type of collar, there are innumerable ones, and here I will not go into depth. For wearing with a tie, I would recommend one of the most optimal - semi-spread.
Unlike the "shark", it is more versatile: not too conservative and not trendy; suitable for most face types.
Shoulder seams
Do I need to tuck in my shirt?
If it is a classic or, the answer is obvious - it is necessary. In other cases, it is a matter of taste, image and your mood. It is absolutely certain that tuck in a sports shirt not necessary.
correct mens shirt length
Another question is what should be the correct length in this case. My advice is the middle of the back pocket of the jeans. The following photo is the wrong length:
on the left - too short, on the right - too long shirt
It is also allowed to wear a loose shirt under a sweater. Personally, I don't like these bows. Some kind of sloppy look is obtained.
controversial view, what do you think?
Again, this is a matter of personal preference, and modern street fashion looks at many things of this kind indulgently. However, there are many good examples:
T-shirt under the shirt
If these two pieces of men's clothing are paired, the shirt can be left unbuttoned. Especially this combination looks good if the shirt is flannel and has a pattern in a large cage.
And the last tip for today:
Do not save much - this is my belief. It is better to buy inexpensive jeans. In my experience, the quality of a shirt is directly related to the price. And it's really that element of your appearance that plays a key role in maintaining your reputation as a person with taste.
Even more interesting materials in our groups.
Stylish men's clothing, no less than women's, requires compliance with certain rules and requirements. Suits, and sweaters, jackets and shirts - everything should be harmoniously combined with each other in length and volume, color, pattern and texture of fabrics.
With the wrong unbalanced length of the jacket or sleeves, a person looks sloppy and ridiculous, untidy and funny. There are several important rules that every man needs to know and follow when buying clothes in a store.
Classic standard jacket sleeve length
One of the most important rules is the ratio of the length of the sleeves of the jacket and shirt.
If the right ratio is observed, the man will look elegant and presentable. If you ignore these rules, you can completely ruin your appearance and create a negative opinion about yourself, giving the impression of a sloppy and stupid person.
The optimal sleeve length for a men's jacket is determined very simply:
- You need to lower your outstretched hand down.
- Lock the cuff with the other hand.
- Measure the gap between the shirt cuff and the jacket.
The shirt sleeve should protrude from under the jacket no more than 1.5-2 cm.
If the shirt cuff reaches the base of the thumb, then the jacket should end just above this level, but not more than 2 cm.
This rule applies to traditional classic and fashionable sports jackets or jackets.
Jacket with shirt
When buying a fashionable blazer with a shirt, you need to pay attention to the harmonious combination of the length of the products with each other. On the shirt sleeve, a small margin of length is acceptable. When unbuttoned, the cuff of the shirt should not be lower than the middle of the palm.
There are two options for determining the correct length of a jacket sleeve.
- Classic variant.
When the cuffs of the shirt peek out a little from under the sleeves of the jacket. This option is recommended for those who have long arms and large hands. The long sleeve of the jacket will smooth out the disproportion of the figure. It is strictly forbidden to completely cover the cuffs of the shirt with long sleeves of the jacket, as the suit will look large, clumsy and baggy.
- Modern version.
This option provides for the observance of the optimal length ratio, when the shirt cuff protrudes significantly from under the jacket, but not more than 2 cm. With an increase in this gap, it will seem that the suit is small and not chosen for height. This rule should be observed especially carefully for tall men, since the wrong ratio of the size of the sleeves will emphasize the big growth, giving the figure clumsiness.
With a sweater
When putting on a knitted or knitted sweater over a shirt, it is important to know the correct combination of sleeve sizes with each other. The same principle works here as in the classic version with a jacket. The cuff of the shirt must necessarily look out from under the sweater by no more than 1 cm.
But there are options when a man puts on a shirt, sweater and jacket at the same time.
In this case, you can follow one of the following rules:
- sequential arrangement of length - a long sleeve shirt, a little shorter than a sweater, then a jacket;
- the two-layer arrangement of the sleeves - the shirt, then the jacket, and the sweater is on the same level with the jacket and does not look out.
ADVICE! When buying a jumper or sweater for a man, it is necessary to control the width of the cuff circumference. That's right - when a knitted cuff gently but tightly wraps around a person's wrist, and does not fall down the arm.
With a coat
Correct coat or jacket sleeve length are a vital necessity as they protect hands from cold and rain. The correct length is one that covers the shirt by 1 cm. Be sure to make sure that with your hands down, the edges of the suit slightly overlap the top edge of the gloves. Too long coat sleeves look undignified, depriving the clothes of neatness, and the man of elegance. 
When shirt cuffs peek out a little from under the coat, this is not a fundamental mistake. But when the sleeves of the jacket also peek out, this is already unacceptable negligence, which will cause significant harm to the image of a man!
This rule applies not only to coats, but also to jackets, short fur coats, raincoats or sheepskin coats.
We don't make mistakes
When buying men's clothes, many make stylistic mistakes that greatly spoil the appearance of a man, giving the image a loose, sloppy character.
Many people make these mistakes:
- get cheap low-grade things that do not sit well on the figure;
- buy suits of bright color, they look comical and frivolous;
- choose cheap low-quality fabrics;
- incorrectly combine color options for clothes;
- choose the wrong length
- do not measure the length of the product with the parameters and features of their figure.
Choosing clothes in the right combination of color, length and texture of fabrics, a man can always look stylish and elegant, giving the impression of a successful and intelligent person. A presentable appearance changes the opinion of others about a person.
A properly dressed person inspires confidence and respect, they begin to entrust him with responsible tasks, which contribute to the rapid advancement of the career ladder leading to the heights of power and wealth.
If you are not a secret admirer of Pierrot, then with too long sleeves in outerwear you need to do something and better before going out in public. Because you can walk in a jacket for growth only a year and only in a sandbox. In all other cases, too long a sleeve looks strange, undignified and interferes with movements.
With sleeves that are too short, the visual story is even sadder. The “shot” look is very cheap and leads to obsessive thoughts that someone is wearing something after someone else.
How to determine if the sleeve is correct or not
Conduct an experiment - lower your arm, and then bend it at the elbow. In both cases, the sleeve opens the wrist a lot? So it's the wrong sleeve. What is the risk? In addition to the cheap “shot” look, this is fraught with the fact that no gloves will save you in winter (unless they are up to the elbow). And pockets, by the way, too. The sleeve will shamelessly ride up, bare the wrist, and all conceivable and unthinkable winter precipitation, together with the piercing wind, will climb into your very soul, bypassing the jacket.
Little remark
Of course, we are talking about classic styles with traditional sleeve lengths and ignoring flared sleeves and the popular youth length ¾ or 7/8.
What should be the length of the sleeve
Feminism reigns in this issue, so the rules for determining the length of the sleeve for men and women are common.
For winter clothes
The sleeve should reach the bones on the hand, with a clenched fist (the very place where the fingers grow from).
For demi-season clothes
The sleeve should reach to the protruding bone at the base of the phalanx of the thumb.
Stock up!
Since in outerwear we do not lie on the sofa with our arms outstretched at the seams, but actively wear it, move around and gesticulate, we don’t have to be a psychic to understand that a margin in the length of the sleeves is vital. And that's why:
· When worn, on the sleeves, in the area of the elbows, folds are formed, which naturally reduce their length.
· Fur and leather shrink a lot during wear (textiles to a lesser extent). And, by the way, under the fur there is also a leather fabric, on which, again, folds form in the elbow area. And not only folds, but also stretched areas, which are to blame for all the same elbows.
Therefore, there are only three alternatives: either lie down all winter with outstretched arms, or move like a robot, or choose sleeves with a margin for all possible deformations.
How to try on outerwear and what to look for
Whatever the temptation to try on a fur coat immediately on a T-shirt, this is not necessary. Always try on outerwear with the clothes you usually wear underneath, according to the season. That is, if you breathe unevenly towards voluminous knitted sweaters and deer, then measure on them. Or at least keep them in mind! The same goes for shouldered jackets and the habit of wearing a scarf under your jacket. All this can be great to shorten the sleeve.
What to do if you don't try on the jacket? How to measure sleeve length?
This is a commonplace situation in the case of buying clothes in an online store, so we will learn how to measure the length of the sleeve using a centimeter tape:
· The person being measured must also stand in the most natural position. Don't do ballet posture if you don't have it.
· Bend your arm at the elbow approximately at an angle of 120 ° and take it slightly to the side.
· Apply the zero centimeter mark to the end of the upper protruding bone of the shoulder. Then stretch the tape along the shoulder to the elbow and further to the wrist. Do not pull the tape too tight, but do not let it sag, but hold it on your elbow. The mark located at the level of the sleeve length you need (see above) is the full length of the jacket sleeve or the length of the coat sleeve that you need.
Sleeve shortening
It happens that no matter how hard you try, but the arms, at least shoot yourself, are short, or the sleeves are too long, and the jacket is simply incredibly beautiful. That is not to buy - it is impossible! Most often, this is easily corrected by turning the cuffs up (usually this function is provided in many styles of outerwear). If you consider lapels to be bad manners, then before shortening the sleeves, wear a jacket, sheepskin coat or fur coat for some time with lapels so that the sleeves undergo all imaginable and unimaginable shrinkage, and only then shorten.
We do not recommend shortening to a length of less than 2 cm. Again, this has to do with shrinkage. That is, to put it simply, the sleeves themselves will naturally shorten by these 2 cm after some time.
Remember!
Pats, belt loops, buttons and other decorative elements cannot be transferred when shortening or lengthening sleeves. Of course, it is possible to transfer, but there will be holes on which, out of desperation, even embroidery will be impossible.
It is also not always possible to shorten the bottom of the sleeve, so undercuts are used, i.e. an additional seam will appear on the sleeve. In some cases, the sleeve is shortened through the armhole, if the width of the sleeve relative to the girth of the forearm allows.
If the last time you shone with your sewing talent was at labor lessons at school and didn’t even finish your apron, then the most correct decision would be to entrust the shortening of the sleeves to specialists who have the appropriate tools and experience.
We hope that the topic of the correct sleeve length is fully disclosed for you and the only thing left for us to do is to wish you a great shopping experience!
Choosing a shirt is the same art as the ability to speak or negotiate. In the end, they meet by clothes, and in the image of a business man, mistakes are unacceptable.Style is in the details: what kind of tie fits the shirt, how many centimeters the sleeve of the shirt can peek out from under the sleeve of the jacket... Fashion expert and author of the book"Gentleman" Bernhard Retzelhow to choose the right shirt.
In the new book you will find all the information you need to dress in full accordance with the style inherent in a real gentleman.
For example, if you decide to choose a shirt, then you need to pay attention to its color, style and a lot of other nuances. Otherwise, choosing a shirt that does not fit the place where you are going, you risk looking ridiculous. And of course, we must remember the most important melting point: a good shirt is one that fits well! But first things first
Rule number 1: shirt sleeve length
Not right: many people choose shirts with sleeves that are too short. Some people pay attention to the length of the sleeves, but forget that shirts take their final size only after the fourth or fifth wash. Consequently, the new shirt does not yet have a final sleeve length or an exact collar size. Therefore, a good cutter will add material to the shrinkage of the product, so that even after several washes the shirt fits perfectly.
Right: when the sleeves are the right length, the cuff covers the wrist, reaching the knuckle of the thumb. The sleeve should be of sufficient length so that the forearm is not visible not only when the hand is lowered down, but also when the arm is in a bent position. In other words, the shirt sleeve "pulls" into the jacket sleeve when you sit down and raise your arms. The cuff should be tight enough to keep the sleeve from slipping far down, but this danger only exists if the sleeves are too long.
Rule number 2: jacket sleeve length
Not right: most people buy shirts with too short sleeves and jackets with too long sleeves. The cuffs of such a shirt disappear under the sleeves of the jacket, giving the impression that there is a shirt with short sleeves under the jacket. Moreover, even a well-fitting jacket looks too big if the shirt sleeves are too long.
Right: if both the shirt and jacket are the correct length, the cuff edge will show about half an inch (1 cm), although some prefer more. In exceptional cases, the sleeves of a jacket may seem too short in relation to its length, but since the jacket is never worn without a shirt, it is not conspicuous and may even look good. The length of the cuff, exceeding the length of the jacket sleeve, visually lengthens the arm, provided that the length of the shirt sleeve is correct. A man with short arms can, of course, use this effect.
Rule number 3: collar
Not right: if the outer edge of the shirt collar is not covered by the lapel of the jacket, this usually means that the collar is not cut perfectly. The harmonious relationship between the shirt collar, tie and jacket is broken if the material of the front of the shirt peeks out between the shirt collar and lapel. Of course, this problem rarely occurs in double-breasted jackets and never in a well-tailored suit.
Right: the outer edge of the shirt collar and its ends must be clearly covered by the lapel of the jacket. Only in this way does perfect harmony arise between the lines of the collar, tie and the lapel framing them. A shirt collar with elongated pointed ends is the most difficult to cover with a lapel, unless the jacket is sewn close-fitting and with a high neckline. A "cut" collar is usually elegant, because its outer edge is always covered by a lapel, even if the jacket is not very well cut.
Rule number 4: jacket lapel
Not right: the collar of a shirt is too narrow if the lapel of a properly tailored jacket overlaps it at the back of the head. Unfortunately, many manufacturers are blindly following fashion when it comes to shirt collar width. However, English and Italian companies, strictly following the tradition, are well aware of the important role played by the width of the collar and that this detail, unlike all others, should never be subjected to the vicissitudes of fashion. This is especially important because narrow collars can often show a tie at the back of the neck and should be avoided.
Right: the collar of a shirt, if it is of the correct width, will not be covered by the jacket at the back of the neck, provided that the jacket is well made. In this regard, it should be mentioned that the cut of jacket collars is designed for a well-fitting shirt collar. Therefore, the position of the jacket collar is checked by its relation to the shirt collar. As a result, you should buy a shirt with a perfectly tailored collar before buying or ordering a jacket.
Rule number 5: tie knot
Not right: the collar of the shirt should be of such a size that the tie knot does not lift the ends of the collar above the chest. They should remain on the chest even when turning the head. Of course, the ends of the collar can also rise when the tie knot is too large. It is best to use the knot you are used to wearing. In this case, it is enough to have your favorite tie on so that when buying a shirt, you can try it on in the store with him.
Right: the ends of a properly cut collar lie on the chest and do not rise when you move your head. They are held in this position by the tie knot itself, although the collar must also be a certain size. The collars of really good shirts are always cut large enough to fit well, whether the collars are wide or narrow. Those who persist in buying shirts with small, narrow collars should not wear heavy jacquard ties.
Rule #4: Tie
Not right: the collar of the shirt should be cut so that the knot is exactly in the middle of the top of the triangle and does not slide down. In this example, the tie knot does not fill the corner between the ends of the collar to the top of the collar. If this is not explained by a wrongly tied tie, then it is better not to buy a shirt with which this happens. It is impossible to create perfect harmony between a tie and a shirt with a collar like this.
Right: the knot of the tie should sit exactly in the triangle between the edges of the collar and stay there whether the top button of the collar of the shirt is buttoned or not. Many men have a habit of not only leaving this button open, but not even tightening their tie tightly. This is a half-measure: those who do not like ties should not wear them, but instead just leave the neck open.