Skirt styles - choose the best model for yourself. Pattern of a skirt with a wrap and drapery at the waist How to make a drapery on a skirt

Skirt with drapery along the darts. Three small, unstressed folds coming out of a slanted, slightly curved tuck (Figure 447) create a draped effect.

On the pattern in front of the skirt (Figure 448), draw a dashed line of the tuck in the desired direction so that its horses coincide with the end of the new tuck. Close the warp tuck and move it in the new direction as shown in Figure 449.
Close the new tuck and cut the template along the line of the tuck. Place the pattern on the figure and mark the beginning of small folds (put notches on both lines of the tuck). Determine the direction of the folds and draw their lines (Figure 450). The folds can be moved on the figure in any direction.
Number the parts of the pattern between the lines of folds, cut and push the parts one from the other to the depth necessary for the formation of folds (Figure 451). The depth of the folds depends on the thickness of the fabric, the length of the folds and the distance between them. For a skirt made of thin woolen fabric, the minimum depth of the fold, indicated in figure 451 by the number III, is 3 cm, by the number II - 2.5 cm and by the number I - 2 cm.
Specify the direction in which the folds will be laid (see the arrow in Figure 451). Lay the folds, fasten them and stitch the tuck.
To replace folds with gathers, you need to push the parts apart and connect their ends with a smooth line. When performing assemblies on parts made of light fabric, the parts are usually pushed apart much more than for simple folds.

Skirt with asymmetrical draping. To build a drawing of the skirt shown in Figure 452, prepare the pattern in front of the entire skirt.

If the drapery of the skirt passes below the hip line, for elegance, the skirt should be narrowed at the bottom (Figure 453). If the physique does not allow narrowing the skirt (the hips are very long or not steep enough), drapery should be discarded.
Draw lines of a new tuck and folds-draperies.
Do not draw these lines, very obliquely: long folds with their mass themselves increase this inclination on the figure.
In the direction of the folds and along the new line of the tuck, distribute the solution of the fit tucks. Distribute the tuck from the right side, as shown in Figure 453. Close the tucks, cut the pattern along the transfer line of the left tuck and the lines of the folds and push the parts apart to obtain folds of the required width (Figure 454).
The two upper folds are obtained by two small darts. If these darts have a solution that is insufficient for the folds, the template is cut in the direction of these folds to notches A and B and the parts are moved apart to the required distance. The top folds are usually laid down. The bottom two can be laid up and down.
If the tapered skirt is ankle length, pleat up a few folds or slit in the back.

Skirt with drapery along the yoke line. A one-piece yoke is softly superimposed on deep folds (Figure 455).

On the pattern of the front of the skirt (narrowed at the bottom), build a yoke (Figure 456, a solid line from A to B).
At the end of the yoke line, place a warp tuck (notch B). If the tuck is too deep for a short length (as is the case in the example), distribute it as shown in figure 456. Continue the line of the yoke and place a notch C.
Place the pleats accordingly; model, giving less slope to those folds that end at the side cut line. Number the strips and mark the notches.
For a skirt of this model, you need a lining made of silk fabric. To cut out the lining, use the pattern shown in Figure 456. Cut out the pattern. Close the darts. Pull apart the pattern pieces. Cut the yoke to point C. Do not move piece 5 more than 1-2 cm at the notch.
The depth of each fold can reach 7-8 cm. Piling of folds one on top of the other should be avoided.
Reproduce the contours of the details on the fabric. Indicate the direction of the folds, mark their depth, take into account the seam allowance (Figure 457).
Due to the spreading of the parts of the pattern, the line of the bottom of the skirt took the form of an arc. Such a cut cannot be bent and hemmed, as usual. To process the bottom of such a skirt, you should cut out a facing 6-8 cm wide and turn the bottom cut with it.
If the width of the fabric allows, the skirt should be cut in one piece in the middle of the front. With a narrow fabric in the middle of the front, you can make a seam.
Lay the folds correctly and, to avoid excessive thickness, iron them at the level of the connection with the yoke.

Skirt with arbitrary drapery (Figure 458). Compare this model with the model of the bodice shown in figure 433 in the article Draped bodices.

On the drawing of a skirt narrowed down, draw the lines of the model. Pata, rising obliquely from the left side cut, holds two groups of soft folds.
Mark the location of the drapery folds, with lines 1 and 2 starting from the same point. The edge of the drapery, located along the folds 1, 8, lags a little behind, like the edge of a pocket (Figure 459).
Cut the pattern along the lines of the folds, close the tuck from the waist line on the right side of the skirt and make the necessary expansion of the folds (Figure 460): folds 1-4 - 4 cm each, folds 5-8 - 2.5 cm each. The expansion can be increased if desired . If at the same time the tuck from the waistline did not completely close, move the rest of it closer to the side cut.
Draw the outlines of all the details, circle the folds and add allowances for the seams (shaded areas).
Indicate with arrows how to lay the folds (in skirts, usually the last fold is directed downwards, and the rest upwards).
Pata, holding a group of folds, is made on a lining (see figure 433 in the article Bodies with drapery), which has a hem allowance along the entire length of the part.
To drape, first connect the patty to the lining, and then attach the end of the patty to the lining on the wrong side of the pleats.

Flared skirt with drapery. To build a drawing of such a skirt (Figure 461), first of all, remake the base of the skirt into a flared skirt. Then attach the pattern to the figure and outline the model lines (Figure 462).

Cut the pattern, push the details to the required size of the solution of both folds (Figure 463). Provide a seam allowance up around the fastening patty.
Skirt with drapery in the form of a group of crayons "assemblies (Figure 464). Select the desired size of the finished skirt and add the amount of expansion for the gathers to it.
Mark on the drawing the location of the assemblies, as shown in Figure 465, and draw circles with a diameter of 6 cm.
To perform gathers on the fabric, cut out circles with a diameter of 1 cm inside the drawn circles, overcast the sections and, on the front side of the fabric, collect the gathers on the thread with long stitches, moving from one hole to another. Pull the thread as tight as possible, tuck the seam inside out and fasten the thread.

Materials from the site http://rukodelkino.com

Draped skirts

Designs of skirts with drapery are built on the drawing of the basis of a straight skirt. In this case, the tucks turn into drapery. The type of drapery depends on the structure of the fabric. So, silk and wool give volumetric soft drapery, knitwear - flexible, plastic. Drapery from these fabrics easily fits along the oblique and transverse threads. Rigid light fabrics are draped only along the oblique thread, forming clear radial folds.

Model 1 (Fig. 1)
Skirt with drapery along the darts.

Three small, unpressed folds emerge from a slanted, slightly curved dart to create a draped effect.
On the pattern of the front panel of the skirt, the lines of the direction of the folds-draperies are applied (Fig. 2). The pattern is cut along the marked lines and bred to the desired size. The distance between the folds should not be the same: between the first and second it is about 3.5-4 cm, and with each subsequent one it decreases by 0.5 cm compared to the previous one (Fig. 3).

Model 2 (Fig. 4)
Skirt with asymmetrical draping at the front.

With asymmetrical drapery, the pattern of the front panel of the skirt is built in full size. The draping can be positioned from the waist line to the hip line and below. If it passes below the hip line, then for greater elegance, the skirt is narrowed down along the side seams by 2-3 cm on each side. On the pattern, an undercut line is marked along which the draping folds will be located (Fig. 2). It is undesirable to place them at the extreme points of the lodrez line, it is necessary to step back 2-3 cm. Libyas are drawn from the undercut line to the side seam, which determine the direction of the folds.
First, cut the pattern of the front panel of the skirt along the undercut line (Fig. 3) and close the tuck on its left side, and then along the marked drapery lines. The width of the folds is from 3.5 to 4.5 cm.
The back panel of the skirt is left unchanged.

Model Z (Fig. 4)
Softly draped wrap skirt on the front cloth

Fig. 1 Skirt with a softly draping smell along the front panel

Fig.2 Undercut lines

We will first need to remove three sizes:

waist size (OT) - we measure at the narrowest point, tightly clasping the waist with a tape;
hip volume (OB) - we measure at the most convex places of the buttocks; for ladies with the effect of "riding breeches" we make a measurement for this volume, we use a larger number to build a pattern;
hip height (WB) - we measure on the side from the waist line to the hip line, after tying a thin tape over them for ease of measurement;
product length (CI) - measure from the waist to the planned length.

Measurement locations - see the figure below.

For the subject drawing of a pencil skirt pattern, let's assume that these measurements are:

FROM=70 cm;
OB=98 cm;
CI=74 cm;
WB = 20-22cm (this is the average measurement, it is usually used to build the main pattern; if your parameters are very different from it, use your numbers).

Let's prepare paper for constructing a base pattern (preferably millimeter paper, it is more convenient to set aside dimensions on it), a pattern, a ruler and pencils.

We start from the upper left point, and from there we will move down and to the right.

Stepping back 5 cm from the top and the left edge of the paper, put a point (∙) A. Vertically down, set aside the length of the product - AD. On the right side, we set aside half the volume of the hips plus 1 cm for a free fit = 98/2 + 1 cm = 50 cm - (∙) V. We draw the DC and BC lines.

Side skirt line

We divide the drawn rectangle in half by drawing a perpendicular line to the segments DC and AB.

hip line

From (∙) A lay down 20-22 cm - AL (= hip height). Draw a horizontal line from (∙)L, getting (∙)L1 and (∙)L2.

Dart size calculation

Calculation formula (OB - OT): 2 \u003d (98 - 70): 2 \u003d 14 cm. Of these, 1⁄2 will be removed in the side tucks (14: 2): 2 \u003d 3.5 cm for each. Set aside 3.5 cm from the sideline and connect these (∙) with (∙) L2.

We extend the lines of the darts by 1 cm up.

If the difference between OB and OT is more than 14 cm, two tucks are made at the back. The first one is 5-7 cm from the middle of the back, its depth is 3-4 cm, the length is 13-15 cm. The rest of the segment is divided in half, the depth of the second tuck is 2-3 cm, the length is 12-13 cm.

We connect the curved curve (∙)1 and (∙)A, (∙)1 and (∙)B. We divide the segment L L2 equally and draw a perpendicular to the segment AB. From (∙) B1 we measure to the right along the red pattern line 5-6 cm (the same parameter for all solutions), draw a perpendicular to the line of the hips.

The remaining excess in terms of volume at the waist - 7 cm - is distributed to the tucks of the back and front parts of the skirt. Most - 4 cm will go to the back, the smaller - 3 cm - to the front. The length of the tuck on the back part is 12-13 cm, for the front part - 9-10 cm (the same number for all solutions).

We take the tuck to the left by 5 mm for beauty.

Please note that the deeper the tuck is required, the longer it should be.

Divide the side lines in the areas from the waist to the hips in half and set aside 5 mm from these (∙).

Using a template or by hand, we draw a side line.

Drawn patterns are transferred to tracing paper or other paper. We designate the direction of the shared thread.

The basic cut assumes a seamless front of the skirt. The back part is cut with a seam into which a zipper is inserted. A belt is attached to the waistline.

We build a pencil skirt pattern: video master class

Designing various models of a skirt based on a basic pattern

Tapered skirt with two flounces

For such a model, you first need to complete the basic pattern of a pencil skirt with your own hands or download it on the Internet for your size. For example, on the Anastasia Korfiati website, you can download a skirt pattern for free.

On the constructed skirt pattern, we perform modeling, as in the figure below. Both front and back we narrow down by one and a half cm. We start narrowing, stepping back 10 cm from the hip line.

The estimated length of the skirt from the waist line is 70 cm.

We draw a shuttlecock on the front part. Then we reshoot it in expanded form separately, correcting the lower edge, smoothing out the stepped transitions at the junction points.

Cutting out a pencil skirt with a frill

Such a model of a pencil skirt is perfectly sewn from knitwear or any dress fabric with elastane additives.

To perform, you will need 1.7 m of fabric with a width of 145 cm. See the main cutting details below. In addition, we cut out a belt with a width of 7 cm (in finished form - 3.5 cm), a length - along the length of the waist plus 3 cm of an increase in the fastener. To strengthen the belt, it is better to use thermal fabric.

When laying out on fabric, keep in mind that the seam allowances should be 1.5 cm, along the bottom of the skirt - 3 cm.

Skirt tailoring

We cut out all the details. We fold the details of the shuttlecocks in pairs with the front side inward, sew along the rounded edge, turn it inside out, baste this edge and iron it.

We bend the shuttlecocks along lines 1 and 2, avoiding asymmetry.

We sweep and stitch the front and back tucks. We iron. We sweep the frills on the front part of the skirt along the marked places on the waist and sides.

We carry out side seams, iron the allowances and process the edges. If you use this pattern for sewing a knitted pencil skirt, then it is better to process the edges of the details with a slanting silk hem. Sew a hidden zipper into the back seam.

Sew on a belt at the waist.

We tuck the bottom of the skirt, overstitching it with a double needle. You can do otherwise - go along the edge with an overlock, bend the edge and manually sew it with a blind seam.

Skirt with buttons: MK video

Peplum pencil skirt

This model is suitable for slender girls. For ladies with size 48 and above, it is better to choose skirts without details that increase the hips.

First you need to build a pattern according to your size (see the step-by-step instructions above) or download it on the Anastasia Korfiati website.

We decide on the style of the Basque. It can be different - the same in length, elongated in the center of the back. Then we build a peplum pattern.

For example, the given finished pattern is drawn for a peplum length of 20 cm without differences along the profile.

For the calculation, we use the formula: R \u003d FROM: 6 - 1 cm. We draw a semicircle, and setting aside 20 cm from it, we draw the second line.

To lengthen the back, we increase one side of the pattern to 25-30 cm. We draw a smooth line connecting the lower ones (∙).

Models of straight skirts with various frills look very impressive. Just keep in mind that the blouse in this case should be concise, without ruffles.

Front slit pencil skirt with vertical flounce

For such a model, you first need to build a basic pencil skirt pattern with your own hands or download it on the Internet for your size. For example, on the Anastasia Korfiati website, you can download a skirt pattern for your size.

We copy on tracing paper in front of the skirt in full turn - see drawing.

For a pencil skirt with a cut, draw a vertical line and cut the pattern.

The back part for the skirt of this model does not change, we cut it out of 2 parts according to the basic drawing.

To the narrower part of the front, add an allowance for the slot. Its width is 8 cm, length is 14 cm.

On the larger part of the front we draw a shuttlecock.

We re-shoot all the elements of the shuttlecock on tracing paper and glue it into a common part along the long sides.

With smooth rounding, you need to create a beautiful outer side of the shuttlecock. How to do it correctly is marked in the drawing with a blue line.

front part - 1 pc.;
front side detail - 1 pc.;
rear part - 2 pcs.

Black cotton fabric:

detail for processing a shuttlecock - 1 pc. (on the drawing in blue);
belt - 1 pc. (length is FROM + 4 cm per clasp, width - 7 cm).

Do not forget to take into account the allowances for the seams of 1.5 cm, for the hem of the bottom - 4 cm. We strengthen the belt with a thermal fabric, cut out without allowances.

How this model is sewn

We fold the large part of the front and the part of black fabric for processing the shuttlecock with the right sides inward.

We sweep their outer edge and the outer edge of the slots. We cut the details, cut off the allowances, turn the shuttlecock inside out. We sweep the shuttlecock along the edge, iron it.

We process the side of the front part with an overlock, turn the allowance - 4 cm - onto the slot, and tack.

We impose the central part of the skirt on the side, aligning along the line and basting.

We adjust along the alignment line to the slots.

Sew a zipper into the back seam. Sweep and stitch the side seams.

We tuck the allowance on the bottom to the wrong side and tuck by hand with a blind seam.

Lay the slot and tack with a hidden seam.

We tack the lower part of the frill along the longitudinal side to the skirt with a hidden seam.

We sew a belt, sew a hook for a fastener.

Straight skirt with slit

The skirt with a slit is modeled on the basis of a classic straight model. Interesting details are implemented in it - a yoke with vertical embossed seams, a slot along the back seam, fastened with buttons. Under such a skirt, you can easily pick up a light summer blouse in the kit.

We build a basic pattern according to our size or look for and download a finished one on the Internet. On the site of A. Karfiati there are options for different sizes, you can find online lessons on building drawings of skirts.

How to make a pattern of a pencil skirt with a slot

Now let's start modeling. We lay down 15 cm from the level of the hips. We draw the level of the coquette and cut it off. From the lower (∙) tuck we lower the perpendicular (red dotted line in the drawing). We cut the yoke of the back along the lines of the tuck and the red dotted line. We draw a slot 8 cm wide.

For the front part, repeat the level of the yoke and the perpendicular from the bottom (∙) tuck.

For the back half, cut out 2 pcs. every detail.

For the front, cut out 2 pcs. side parts of the coquette and 1 pc. other parts with a fold.

In addition, we cut out the belt. Its length is OT + 8 cm for the fastener and free fit.

How to sew

We outline relief seams on both coquettes, we build them with an indent of 7 mm. Baste and stitch the seams on the side of the coquettes. We sew a hidden zipper into the central seam on the back yoke.

From the right side of the lower panel of the back of the skirt we cut off a strip 4 cm long, leaving 4 cm for the hem of the slots on the right and 8 cm on the left. We strengthen the allowance for the slot on both parts with a thermal cloth. The right allowance with a width of 4 cm is tucked and ironed. We sweep along the marking of the loops.

We tuck the left allowance 4 cm and iron it.

We put the right side on the left, sweep at the top.

We sweep the lower panels of the skirt on the sides, we sew.

Sweep the yoke with the bottom part. Sew, stepping back 7 mm from the edge. Sew on the belt.

Wrap skirt: video master class

Draped skirt

A draped element on the sides and a buckle on the stitched belt give this model a special originality. You can sew such a skirt using materials of different composition and color. The main thing is that they are soft, drape beautifully and keep their shape.

We start by building a basic model according to our sizes or we find a ready-made pattern, for example, on A. Korfiati's website.

Next, we will consider the modeling process step by step. Lay down from the waist line on the front part 3 cm and draw a set-in belt 7 cm wide (blue on the pattern). Belt lines should be smooth. A belt is sewn between (∙) a-a. We re-shoot the belt as a separate element.

Cut the front into two vertical parts along the auxiliary line (red). We cut the left part horizontally along the blue lines and push the drapery between (∙) b-b, adding from 10 to 15 cm for folds.

The back of the skirt is modeled similarly, but without the yoke.

The drawing below shows the modeling of the front part and the middle part with the front yoke.

To process the upper cut, we re-shoot and draw the facings on the front and back panels of the skirt 4 cm wide.

Details for the pattern, their number - see below. Do not forget about 1.5 cm for the side allowances and 4 cm for the bottom allowance. Details highlighted in dark color are cut out, in addition to the main fabric, from the lining.

Description of sewing model skirt with drapery

We sew the side parts with auxiliary lines with a long stitch (4 mm) in sections b-b. We pick them up to the desired size, distributing evenly.

We sew parts of the coquettes in front. Overcast the allowances with one joint seam and iron them on the coquettes.

We grind the stitched belt along the upper and lower long sides, turn it inside out, and sweep it out. We put on a buckle. We put a belt between (∙) a-a on the central part of the front and tack. Sew the draped details to the central details of the front and back of the skirt.

Sweep and stitch the side seams. Overcast allowances, iron out. Sew a zipper into the center seam of the back piece.

We strengthen the facing of the front and back parts with a thermal fabric, overcast them along the bottom, grind them on the sides. We put the facings on the skirt, combining along the upper sections, we sew along the waist.

We bend the facings up, iron them, sew them along the seam, sewing allowances to the facings.

After that, we again fold it onto the skirt and stitch along the short sides to the back halves along the zipper braid. We bend the facings to the wrong side, sweep and iron.

We turn the bottom allowance to the wrong side and hem it with a blind seam.

Pencil skirt with decorative zippers: video MK

Lace pencil skirt

This eye-catching lace skirt is tapered at the bottom and has a slit at the back. The upper transparent skirt is made of black lace, the lining is made of light fabric (satin or any blend).

The average length of the skirt below the knees is 66 cm, but you can sew such a translucent skirt even longer by proportionally increasing the length of the back slit.

We build the main pattern of the skirt or use the finished one, printed from the site of A. Korfiati.

We narrow the front and back halves by 1.5 cm. We draw new lines of the side seams, retreating 10 cm down from the hip line. We outline the length of the cut for 1/3 of the length of the skirt.

For this model we need:

lace 1.2 m wide - about 0.8 m;
lining fabric 145 cm wide - 0.7 m;
zipper 20 cm long;
threads.

A transparent lace skirt is cut out from:

back panel - 2 children;

The petticoat is cut out from:

front panel - 1 child. with a fold;
back panel - 2 children;
belt - children. And 8 cm wide, OT + 4 cm long for the clasp.

We lay out the lace details on the front side of the petticoat details, sweep in pairs along the perimeter. Further, the transparent skirt is sewn as a single layer.

On both halves, we sweep and grind the tucks. We sew a zipper. We bast and grind the seams on the sides. We process the allowances with an oblique inlay.

We strengthen the belt with thermal fabric, cut without seam allowances. We sew a belt at the waist.

Black lace pencil skirt is ready!

Leather pencil skirt

A skirt made of leatherette or leather looks great on any type of figure. The main thing is to decide which style and length of the leather pencil skirt suits you. For large women of the 56th or 58th size, you should not sew a short skirt. For them, a long pencil skirt with a slit is better suited.

It should be noted that this type of material is well suited for business style. A tailored jacket or jacket will accentuate your look. A long eco-leather skirt will look interesting with a fur sleeveless jacket and leather boots.

Consider step by step how to sew a leather skirt with an elastic band.

Keep in mind that not every sewing machine can work with leather. If you have a thin skirt made of eco-leather or leatherette, the sewing process will be simplified. But, if the main material is thick leather, then you will need to sew some seams with an awl.

The measurements on which the pattern was built: CI=45 cm, OT=67 cm;

leather (eco-leather) - 0.5 m;
lining fabric - 0.5 m;
wide elastic band (4 cm) for the belt - 0.7 m;
hidden zipper;
sewing machine, scissors, leather needles, chalk.

We build a pattern of a straight skirt.

We mark all the elements on the main material and on the lining. Cut out, leaving allowances of 1.0 - 1.5 cm.

We sweep away the details of the skirt and lining (separately), leaving the seam on the back not stitched.

We sew all the seams, except for the middle one on the back.

We iron the seam allowances in different directions through a cotton fabric or (for rough skin) we tap with a hammer.

We sweep and then stitch the skin and lining along the bottom of the skirt.

Sew a zipper into the center seam on the back. We carry out the central seam of the back.

Pattern of a skirt with a wrap and drapery at the waist

Skirt of a straight silhouette, on the right panel of which there is an assembly along the waist line, the bottom line is rounded. With this model, it is convenient to adjust the change in the size of the waist circumference by simply altering the button or hook.

The skirt is good for everyday wear for any type of figure, except for figures with a protruding belly, as the assembly will increase it even more.

Wrap skirt can be made from any fabric of the dress group, excluding transparent fabrics such as chiffon.

To build a pattern of a skirt with a smell and drapery, use the pattern of the base of a straight skirt.

Construction of a pattern of a skirt with a smell and drapery

1. Draw the entire front panel of the straight skirt.

2. In the upper part of the skirt, the edges of the wrapping parts should be located in close proximity to the ends of the darts.

Draw the outer edges of the wrapper on the left and right parts of the front as shown in Figure 1. The edges of the wrappers intersect at the middle line of the front panel about 10 cm above the bottom line.

3. To simulate drapery (folds) from the tuck on the left side of the front panel of the skirt, set aside half of the solution of this tuck (1 cm) towards the middle of the part and draw the first line of the cut from this point to the intersection point of smells.

4. Transfer the tuck to the cut line.

5. Draw the second and third cut lines as shown in Figure 1.

Note. The number and depth of folds depend on the model chosen.

6. Transfer the resulting two parts of the front panel with smells to tracing paper.

7. Cut a tuck on the right part of the front panel and make cuts along three lines of cuts, without cutting the part below.

8. Move the resulting parts of the wrap skirt part to values approximately equal to 4-5 cm. The depth of the folds is determined by the model (Fig. 3).

9. Align the cuts of the skirt on the resulting pattern.

10. Lay the folds in the direction given by the skirt model and adjust the waist line.

11. Move the tuck on the left part of the front towards the middle, as shown in Figure 4.

12. The pattern of the back panel of the wrap skirt remains unchanged (Fig. 2).

The sequence of tailoring a skirt with a smell and drapery

1. Sweep and stitch the darts on the front and back panels of the skirt, iron them to the center.

2. Gather the gathering into two machine stitches or lay pleats on the right part of the front of the skirt.

3. Process the edges of the sides of the front panel with stitched bands. To do this, glue the adhesive interlining with an iron from the wrong side of the selection. The width of the pick-up can be equal to 3-7 cm. Fold the pick-up face to face with the edge of the bead, overstitch with a seam 0.5 cm from the edge.

4. Iron the seam towards the hem.

5. Baste and stitch side seams. Overcast the cuts, iron in the direction of the back panel.

6. Unscrew the collar to the wrong side of the product and sweep the piping from the side of the bead by 0.1-0.2 cm and process the bottom of the skirt along its back half.

Skirt. Construction of drawings of skirts

Draped skirts

Model 1 (Fig. 1)
Skirt with drapery along the darts.

Rice. 1 skirt with drapery along the darts

Rice. 2. Drawing a line for the direction of folds-draperies

Fig.3. Divorce on relief lines

Model 2 (Fig. 4)
Skirt with asymmetrical draping at the front.

Fig. 1 Skirt with asymmetrical drapery along the front panel

Fig.2. Drawing undercut lines

Rice. 3. Sliding the pattern along the undercut lines

Model Z (Fig. 4)
Softly draped wrap skirt on the front cloth

Fig. 1 Skirt with a softly draping smell along the front panel

Fig.2 Undercut lines

Fig.3. Divorce along undercut lines

The pattern of the front right panel of the skirt is built in full size. Undercut lines are outlined (Fig. 2), along which the drapery folds will pass. These lines go from the side seam to the bottom of the skirt to the tuck at the waist at a distance of 5-6 cm from each other. The style outlines a rounded bottom line.
Along the marked lines, the pattern of the right front panel is cut and bred to the accepted value (Fig. 3) - from 10 to 15 cm.
The left front panel of the skirt is left unchanged, i.e. with darts at the waist. The back panel is also left unchanged.

the material was made according to the book of Ekshurskaya T.N. "Fashion dress. Construction»

It looks like a spiral with additional chiffon wedges.

I looked at another monitor. Here it seems to me that the yoke is cut out by the corners of a square (more precisely, not a yoke, but the top of an ordinary straight skirt - the tucks are simply not visible), and the sun is sewn to this case, so the corners hang down like that. There is also a lining, and it ends somewhere below the knee

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Yes, I don’t remember where I stole this from - from some catalog. All links disappeared after I reinstalled the system. I've already broken my head - I can't remember! From there, these models:

Maybe this will help someone identify the "hand of the master"!

Can't this skirt have the same cut as this dress, only barrels with corners?

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Hello! I'm new. And I really need your help. I liked this skirt, but I don't know how to cut it. with the top everything is clear, but the bottom. The wedges there are somehow incomprehensible. Maybe someone knows how this is done?

I do not know the name of the fabric, it is very similar to velor. Soft.
For the folds. It seems to me that there are intricate reliefs and they turn into SUCH tails.
I don't know how to make a pattern.

It seems to me that there are not wedges, but folds, skirts not fully stitched and stitched with a double line.
Somehow she has everything deliberately "sloppy" in front
What kind of fabric do you want to sew?

M.b. similar "wedges" may be useful to you below (modelling):
Making the bottom of the spiral skirt (Merylin)

Participant
Thank you said: 0 time(s)

Men's rocker jacket (leather jacket), help me find a pattern or tell me how to build it.

Thanks for responding!
Here is the thing that is not clear. Hold it in your hands. Some bits and pieces.
The fabric is dense, but soft, not "dry" like velor.

Participant
From: Tolyatti
Thank you said: 15 times

Participant
From: St. Petersburg
Thank you: 6 times

in my opinion, the shape of the skirt was achieved by making a "double sun" on an ordinary "sun" skirt, there are probably all sorts of tricky lines, because the design lines are not really visible on the drawing. IMHO

What follows from this? Need to sew!
From: Tallinn+Fuengirola
Thank you said: 24074 time(s)

Open albums

Judging by the technical drawing, the base is either straight, loose, with an elastic band on top, or half-sun. Direct is more likely. At the back, at the level of the ends of the tucks, the bottom of the skirt is sewn to this design, which is sewn from two half suns. They are sewn to each other in a mirror image. Again, judging by the picture, the bottom panel is sewn (in the sense of the seam of the coquette, or in the undercut, maybe) only in the center of the back. Then it is somehow attached periodically so that it does not fall, and in front the free lower ends of this structure are attached under the “apron”. Here. I can't make it any clearer, sorry.
It is easier to order this pattern than to try to recreate it from a modest technical drawing.

Sun skirt with drapery. We build an asymmetric pattern

Draped skirt. We build an asymmetric pattern

»data-medium-file=»https://kroycad.ru/wp-content/uploads/YUbka-s-drapirovkoy.-Stroim-asimmetrichnuyu-vyikroyku1.gif»data-large-file=»https://kroycad. ru/wp-content/uploads/YUbka-s-drapirovkoy.-Stroim-asimmetrichnuyu-vyikroyku1.gif» />The sunny draped skirt that I offer you today is very feminine and interesting. It will suit slender graceful girls, without an outstanding tummy.

Such a skirt with an asymmetric drapery coming from the center of the front can be made of wrinkle-resistant fabric, moderately soft and dense. These can be suit fabrics, woolen and half-woolen, as well as other materials that fit these characteristics.

Let's take a look at this model.

Draped skirt. Design

in silhouette - this is a pencil skirt, built on a regular basis;
the direction of the drapery lines is symmetrical, but their combination (joining) is asymmetrical;
drapery lines diverge from the center, reminding everyone of the familiar herringbone parquet;
the back is without features, in the central seam there is a zipper and a slot, which can be either open (cut) or closed (overlap).

The front panel must be made on one layer of fabric, and for the back panel, the fabric should be folded, as usual, in half.
When laying out on the wrong side of the fabric, do not forget to turn the pattern of the front panel face down.
This pattern must have control points for the correct assembly of the drapery.
To check the accuracy of the pattern, fold the front pattern along the center line. If you did everything exactly, then the bottom lines, side cuts and waist (almost all) of the right and left parts should match.

Draped skirt. Sewing order

We collect the drapery in a certain order, indicated by the numbers 1 - 4:

First, we lay the lower right (in the photo) fold (1). We fix it with pins.
We lay the left lower fold (2). The blue (pictured) parts of the fold lines 2 should match. Grinding the blue areas.
We lay the right upper fold (3). We fix it with pins. The green areas of fold 3 must match. We grind green areas.
We lay the left upper fold (4). We fix it with pins. The red sections of the fold 4 must match. We grind the red areas.
The depths of the laid warehouse should be sewn into the joint seams.

Despite the fact that the contour of the pattern of the front panel has internal corners, the technology and assemblies make it possible to do without cutting them. Therefore, it is not necessary to cut corners to the top.

It seems to be not difficult, but so that the skirt does not turn out to be skewed, greater assembly accuracy is required.

You need to iron the front fabric of this model very carefully: when ironing the connecting seams, you should not touch the laid folds with the iron. It will be quite difficult to iron them out later.

And now I invite you to watch the album and video on modeling this skirt and get to work.

If this article turned out to be useful or interesting to you, I would be very grateful if you share it with your friends by clicking on the buttons of social networks.

Perhaps this will be of interest to you too.

I invite you to cooperate!

Red dress "must have" - we sew and have no doubt.

Graduation dress with lace decor - we sew quickly and easily!

Pattern of a pencil skirt with decorative zippers

6 Comments

thanks for your nice answer .i do not read russian so can i find an English or Frensh translation /

Welcome to my blog, sara. You can use google translator (for example).

re: Solar skirt with drapery
I hope you will understand english, but first I love your blog, I learned much of this, now I have a question about the Solar skirt with drapery, on the end how to cut by the folds. thanks in anticipation
Astrid

Astrid, thank you for my blog appreciation. To my regret, my English is worse than my cutting and sewing. If I didn't understand, you can draw your question and send it by e-mail [email protected] But as I understand your question, you don't need to cut folds. They folds (lay down) and must be ironed slightly in the direction as shown at the picture. good luck!

In one of the previous articles, when we talked about skirts with frills, it was mentioned that the outer contour of the frill can have a different geometric shape - an oval, a square, a triangle, etc. The figure on the left shows a skirt, the panel of which is just a frill with a square outer contour. Thanks to this particular figure, the skirt has such effectively hanging ends instead of the usual flat bottom line.

However, the square shape is not the only secret of this model. The skirt panel consists of two layers, rotated relative to each other by 45 degrees, as a result of which not four ends are formed below, but all eight. In addition, when cut from a light translucent fabric, the second layer protects from immodest glances.

Structurally, this model consists of two parts - a yoke and a skirt panel. The role of a coquette can be played by a rectangle, decorated at the waist with an elastic band, or the upper part of the base of a straight skirt 15-20 cm long (in its pure form or slightly flared due to closed darts).

To cut the panels of the skirt, it is necessary to measure the full length of the lower cut of the yoke L. In the case of a rectangle, it is equal to the sum of the circumference of the hips and the increase in freedom of fit L = Ob + Pb, and in the case of cutting out the coquette on the base ( fig.1) - twice the sum of the measurements along the bottom line of the front and back parts of the yoke L = 2 * (L1 + L2)(here: L=2*(23.8+25.2)=98cm).

Note. In case you cut the yoke not from knitwear, it is necessary to provide a zipper in the side or middle back seam. In addition, you need to make sure that L more hips. Otherwise, you need to either lengthen the yoke to the line of the hips, or expand it along the lines of the middle, or extend the cut under the "lightning" on the skirt panel.

The panel of the skirt is an ordinary skirt-sun, only with a square outer contour. Therefore, the next step is to calculate the radius Rin inner circle, the length of which is equal to the length of the lower cut of the coquette L=2*3.14*rin(calculations: Rin=L/6.28=98/6.28=15.6cm).

Cutting panels of a skirt can be done without building a paper pattern, directly on the fabric. Side of a square but, as a rule, is determined by the width of the fabric, while the maximum length of the skirt du will be equal to half the diagonal of the square minus the radius of the inner circle plus the width of the coquette Shk, i.e Du \u003d (1.4 * a) / 2 - Rin + Shk. For example, the side of the square is 150cm, so the length of the skirt at the longest point is (150*1.4)/2-15.6+15=89.4+15=104.4cm (including the hem allowance). The above formula will help you calculate the side of the square if the length of the skirt is predetermined or the width of the fabric does not matter.

The figure on the right shows the rotation of the skirt panels relative to each other by 45 degrees. In this position, the panels are swept along the cut out circle and stitched to the yoke.

Modeling based on a straight skirt.

Procedure:

1. We narrow the skirt on the sides by 2 cm.

2. We apply the lines of drapery, yoke belt and flying ends of the sash. The width of the belt and sashes is selected based on the proportions of the skirt in the photo or at will. It is better that the line of the coquette would pass through the ends of the tucks.

3. If the yoke line crosses one of the darts, then you can move the tuck to another place to close it without disturbing the fit of the skirt.

4. We number the parts.

5. We transfer the details of the sash No. 9 and No. 10 to tracing paper as separate parts and carry out additional modeling (extension to the assembly). We will not consider it. Get it right.

6. Cut off parts No. 1, 2, 3, close the tucks and get the lower part of the belt in front of the skirt.

7. Cut off part number 4. This is the bottom part. We transfer it to tracing paper to obtain the upper part with drapery. We draw lines on it, along which we part the parts with a parallel expansion to the required amount. For each fabric, this value is different, so before modeling, we will determine the assembly coefficient for a specific fabric. Take a piece of fabric, measure the length (A), lay a line with a large stitch along the edge, gather it to the required assembly density. Measure the resulting edge length (B). We divide the value A by the value B, we get k - the assembly coefficient. This coefficient is always greater than one (!). Now, multiplying the length of the part where the drapery is located, by the coefficient k we get the final length of the part.

8. We transfer the lower part of the skirt belt to the tracing paper and carry out further modeling to obtain the upper part of the belt with drapery.

We apply parallel lines to the tracing-paper belts, number the parts, cut them along the lines and part them with a parallel expansion by the amount necessary to obtain a drapery. Not in the picture.

9. Details 5, 6, 7, 8 are parted by the size of the folds. It is better to take a value a little larger than you would like. On the pattern, we close the folds and draw a smooth line on the edge of the part, getting its final configuration.

Assembly order:

1. We notice the folds (the assembly direction is shown by red arrows).

2. We process the flying parts of the sash, assemble each one separately and put pleated skirts on the part. We take note.

3. We gather the upper part No. 4 along the edges and put it on the lower part No. 4. We adjust along the contour. We distribute the assemblies and from the inside we attach them with hidden stitches to the bottom part.

4. Detail No. 4 is stitched to the panel of a skirt with pleats and a sash.

5. We process the upper part of the belt in the same way as part No. 4.

We sew it to the bottom of the skirt.

5. We process the back part by analogy with the front.

6. We grind the side seams.

Further processing - as in a skirt with piping along the waistline.

Year of six wedges

Godet with lengthening

fantasy year

Godet "bell"

Godet with graduation (rice No. 1)

rice#2

All other options can be found here www.osinka.ru/Sewing/Modelling/Ubki/

Floor skirt

A floor-length skirt is on the catwalks and in fashion magazines, but buying it is a problem. It is easier to sew with your own hands in half an hour.
For a year-length skirt, narrow at the hips and flared to the bottom, it is necessary to choose soft and plastic materials. For example, graphite-colored cashmere jersey. Take two measurements - the circumference of the hips and the length of the skirt. Make a pattern - fold the fabric in half and draw the front of the skirt along the fold. At the heart of the cut is a rectangle with a length equal to the length of the skirt, a quarter of the measure wide.
Tailor's trick - the front half will be one-piece. In order to make it flared, draw a line at an angle, approximately at the level of the knees. The main flare will be at the back, so cut out two more halves, which will be the same in shape and length as the front, but smaller. The width of each blank is a quarter measure.
Gather your skirt. First, we sew all the seams on a typewriter, then on an overlock. Cut a belt 7 centimeters wide. Fold it in half, sew and sew to the skirt. Pass the elastic through. Work the bottom of the skirt with a hot iron and gossamer. The skirt is ready.
The most relevant silhouette of the season is the hourglass. For example, a tight-fitting turtleneck, a voluminous cardigan and a belt at the waist. This skirt looks great with a white shirt. This skirt is a great option for work, especially if you are tired of a pencil skirt!

Construction of a skirt pattern for any figure. Step-by-step instruction.

Skirt pattern for all types of figures.

We bring to your attention another technique for constructing a pattern of a straight skirt. If the previous technique is designed for the so-called standard shapes and is more suitable for mass tailoring, then this technique is good because it can be used to build a pattern for any shape, including a figure that has deviations from generally accepted standards. This technique, in comparison with the previous one, takes into account some individual characteristics of a particular person.

There are even more precise methods, methods and techniques used to build patterns for individual tailoring of skirts. We will get to know them later.

We start by taking measurements. In order to take measurements correctly, you need to tie a lace or a thin elastic band on the waist line. Moreover, the lace should lie in the place of the body where the belt of the skirt is usually located when worn, and not horizontally on the floor. Otherwise, during wearing, the skirt belt will inevitably tend to take its usual position, which will entail a displacement of the side seams towards the front or back, i.e. violation of their verticality, and hence the violation of the horizontal line of the bottom. The whole appearance of the skirt will suffer from this.

The process of taking measurements should always be approached with special responsibility, since the final result depends on it.

To build a skirt drawing in addition to the waist and hips, you need to take the following measurements:
A - half waist;

B - half-girth of the hips;

B - the distance from the lace at the waist to the floor in front;

G - the distance from the lace at the waist to the floor on the side;

D - the distance from the lace at the waist to the floor at the back;

E is the distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the skirt.

pattern

Skirt patterns allow using one version of the pattern to sew several completely different skirts. If you like to dance, then patterns of gypsy and Spanish skirts will allow you to sew an outfit for performances yourself. And if you just follow fashion, or prefer your own, purely individual style, then this section will help you always look fashionable and stylish. Moreover, using this skill, you can sew an exclusive dress. There are many styles of skirts: year, flared, sun, pleated, pleated, Scottish, spiral, mini, midi, maxi, and skirt patterns will allow you to realize any modeling fantasies. Below are very interesting and practical different options for skirt patterns: patterns of straight skirts, patterns of skirts "Gode", patterns of skirts "Sun", patterns of straight skirts with a cape, patterns of wrap skirts, patterns of skirts with a frill frill, patterns of skirts with an undercut and drapery, etc. which are easy to sew and pleasant to wear.

Skirt pattern with swing drapery

The length of the skirt from the waist is 45 cm. Shorten the patterns of both halves to a length of 45 cm (Fig. 1). Narrow both halves along the side seams - along the bottom by 1.5 cm. Start narrowing 10 cm below the hip line. This completes the modeling of the back half of the skirt, we continue modeling the front half of the skirt.

Rice. 1. Modeling skirt with swing drapery

Modeling the front half of the skirt

Transfer the traveling tuck to the side line (Fig. 1). Cut the front half of the skirt along the line AA1 as shown in fig. 2. Move the left part to the left, to the vertical line AA2. Connect points A1A2 with a straight line. Cut details are shown in fig. 3. Mark the fold with an arrow (points A2-A1). Draw the fractional thread of the front half perpendicular to the segment A2A1 (see Fig. 3).

Rice. 2. Modeling the swing drapery on the front panel of the skirt

How to cut and sew a swing drapery skirt

For sewing the skirt you will need: 0.55 m of ribs 140 cm wide, threads, a hidden zipper 20 cm long, a strip of adhesive padding for the belt and bottom allowances.

Rice. 3. Details of the skirt cut with swing drapery

Lay out the parts on the material folded in half and cut out with seam allowances on all sides - 1.5 cm, along the bottom of the parts - 3 cm (see Fig. 4). When laying out the parts, do not confuse the location of the longitudinal and transverse directions of the threads (!). Additionally, cut out a belt 8 cm wide (4 cm finished) and length according to the measurements: Waist circumference + 5 cm.

Rice. 4. Laying out the details of the skirt with drapery on the material

How to sew a swing skirt

On the back and front halves of the skirt, duplicate the bottom allowances. On the back pieces, iron the allowances to the middle seam. On the middle seam, overcast and iron the allowances.

Sew the front halves along the middle seam, cut the allowances at the bottom, overcast and iron. Stitch the side seams, overcast and iron the allowances. Overcast the bottom allowances, fold and hem. At the waist, sew on a hook.

Rice. 5. The resulting soft pleat to drape

Form a fold along the front of the skirt, drape into a soft swing cascade, fix the drapery at the bottom with a couple of hidden stitches.

Advice! You can experiment with drapery, giving it a different shape - one deep fold or several small ones.

You will find even more non-standard ideas and patterns on the website of the Anastasia Korfiati Sewing School. Subscribe to free news and sew fashionable clothes with us!